Real Parroquia de los Santos Juanes Valencia

This guide to the Real Parroquia de los Santos Juanes in Valencia opens with a puzzle: how do you restore a ceiling fresco that burned to ash during the Spanish Civil War in 1936, decades after court painter Antonio Palomino spent four years covering the vault with the Holy Trinity, saints and an apocalyptic sky? It follows the eighty-five years the vault stood as bare plaster, and the team at Matra Museografia that studied old photographs to map where every lost figure once sat. Stand in the nave and tilt your head up; what moves across the ceiling now is not paint.