Görlitzer Park

This guide to Gorlitzer Park in Berlin starts with pale pink lines that appeared painted across the paths in 2019, before tracing the ground's own layered history: a bombed-out railway station, a Cold War dead zone beside the Wall, and a park built by squatters and neighbors in the early 1980s. It follows a park manager named Cengiz Demirci, and the years of patrols and zero-tolerance policing that came before his idea. Look for the boxes and dashes still faintly visible near the park's gates.