Coppelia

This guide to Coppelia in Havana opens under the flying-saucer roof built to shelter a queue that could wrap the block on a Sunday in 1966, the year the parlor opened with an almost absurd menu of flavors. It follows two of those flavors into the 1993 film Strawberry and Chocolate, where a buttoned-up student and a flamboyant older artist share a bowl until the wall between them cracks. Listen for how that scene turned a neighborhood counter into a symbol of two very different Cubans sharing a table.