La Guarida

This guide to La Guarida in Havana climbs the same wrought-iron staircase that has carried Jack Nicholson, Naomi Campbell, Mick Jagger, Sting and Spain's Queen Sofia past neighbors' laundry lines to an unmarked restaurant. It traces the apartment's turn as a film set for Fresa y Chocolate, the Cuban movie that earned an Academy Award nomination and put this crumbling mansion on screens worldwide before it ever served a plate of food. It follows Enrique and Odeysis as they opened these same rooms as a restaurant in July of 1996.