Callejón de los Peluqueros

This guide to the Callejon de los Peluqueros in Havana follows Gilberto Valladares, known as Papito, from cutting hair at sixteen in a state-run salon to opening his own barbershop on this run-down stretch of Aguiar Street in 1999. You'll hear how he began buying up crumbling buildings around his shop and what he chose to do with the earnings, and about the free hairdressing school, restaurants and galleries that followed. Stand in the alley and count the doorways as you listen.