Urca

This guide follows Urca, the small Rio neighborhood built on landfill beneath Sugarloaf, and a workaround born outside Bar Urca in 1939: pay inside for a table, or buy the same shrimp pastel and crab empada at the counter and carry it yourself to the concrete seawall out front, the mureta. You'll hear how cariocas nicknamed that cheaper route pobreta, and how students, sailors and tourists still fill the wall most weekend evenings. A tip for listening: find your own spot on the wall and settle in for the sunset.