Theatro Municipal do Rio de Janeiro

This guide to the Theatro Municipal's basement in Rio de Janeiro traces how an opera house from 1909 came to hide a dining hall tiled floor to ceiling like ancient Mesopotamia, with fountains showing Gilgamesh and King Darius. It follows the room through masquerade balls, a cabaret set played by Pixinguinha and his Eight Batutas, and years standing empty as a forgotten museum before restoration brought it back. Listen for how a room built for opera patrons' lunch ended up guarded by winged statues at every staircase.