Tra Que Vegetable Village

This guide to Tra Que Vegetable Village near Hoi An starts with a mismatch you can still see today: despite its name, no tea or cinnamon grows anywhere in its eighteen hectares of raised beds, only about fifty five kinds of basil, mint, coriander and mustard greens fed with hand-gathered lagoon seaweed. You'll hear the legend of the king who named it after tasting a wild herb, and how tourism money once tempted families to sell their plots before the government stepped in and rewrote the rules. Each family now holds rights to farm the land, not to sell it.