Ba Na Hills

This guide to Ba Na Hills above Hoi An opens with a rivalry: Da Nang official Nguyen Ba Thanh and a monk named Thich Thien Nguyen each wanted a mountaintop pagoda built on a different spot, and in the late 1990s they settled it by drawing lots. You'll hear what the resulting name, Linh Ung, is said to promise, and the fishermen's legend of a Buddha statue washed ashore that gave rise to three sister pagodas said to guard Da Nang. Come on the new or full moon, when worshippers still climb here to chant.