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Place of worship

Thien Hau Pagoda

710 Nguyễn Trãi, Chợ Lớn, Hồ Chí Minh 70000

Cantonese guildhall temple honoring a sea goddess, its roof lined with porcelain figures and ceiling hung with giant coiled incense.

This guide to Thien Hau Pagoda in Ho Chi Minh City traces the legend of a Fujian girl born in 1044 whose trance saved her father and brothers from a storm at sea, and how sailors up and down the Chinese coast came to revere her as Empress of Heaven. It follows the Cantonese merchants who settled in Cholon around 1760 and built her this hall from imported brick and tile so nothing would feel foreign to her. Above you hang dozens of coiled incense spirals, some more than a yard across, each able to smolder for weeks.

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