St. Louis Cemetery No. 1

This guide to St. Louis Cemetery No. 1 in New Orleans centers on a century-old ritual at the Glapion family tomb, where visitors scratched three X's and shouted a wish to the ghost of voodoo queen Marie Laveau. It follows that tradition through decades of scratching with keys and lipstick, an overnight vandalism in 2013 that forced the Archdiocese to hire a conservator, and the rule change that followed. Faint ghosts of old X's still linger under the new plaster, a few rows from a much newer grave drawing its own visitors.