Arnaud's New Orleans

This guide to Arnaud's in New Orleans opens behind a locked dining room door in 1922, where a waiter poured whiskey into coffee cups so a raid would find only breakfast china. It follows the restaurant's founder, French wine salesman Arnaud Cazenave, who arrived in 1902 chasing the wine trade and opened his own place on Bienville Street in 1918. You'll hear about the raided private rooms and vanishing back bars he ran during Prohibition, and about the self-crowned title, Count, he gave himself long before any of it. Look for that title still stamped around the dining room today.