Chiang Mai Gate

This guide to Chiang Mai Gate traces one of King Mengrai's four gates into the walls of his new Lanna capital in 1296, and how it diverged from its more photographed sibling, Tha Phae Gate, on the city's east side. It follows the market that grew up around this southern gate instead, with vendors serving curry, sticky rice and grilled skewers beneath the old brick archway before dawn, and again after dark. Locals still argue over what to call it, South Gate Market, Bumrung Buri Market, or simply Pratu Market, depending on which corner of the neighborhood they grew up in.