Vorob'yevy gory

This guide to Vorob'yevy gory in Moscow returns to the summer of 1827, when two teenage boys, Alexander Herzen and Nikolay Ogarev, climbed this hill above the river and made each other a promise as the sun set over the city's domes. It follows what that vow meant across their following decades of arrest, exile and banned writing sent back into Russia, and traces the hill's older life as a retreat where tsars once escaped Moscow's summer heat. You'll stand near the same view of the city that first moved two ordinary teenagers to imagine changing an empire.