National Museum in Kraków

This guide to the National Museum in Kraków follows two losses that shaped the building you're standing in: a Bruegel painting seized when Nazi forces occupied the city in 1939, still missing from the collection today, and the museum's own home, an unfinished monument to independence begun in 1934 that took decades of war and neglect before its scaffolding finally came down in 1989. You'll hear about the three architects behind its modernized-classical design and the scale of the wartime looting the collection still hasn't recovered from. Look for the seam in the grand staircase where the 1930s plan and later patchwork meet.