Taboan Public Market

This guide to Taboan Public Market in Cebu City traces its name to tabo, an old word for a market day when fishermen and farmers traded fresh catch for rice and salt, long before refrigeration existed. It follows how that old problem of spoiling fish in a hot port city shaped the drying and smoking methods still used on the baskets of danggit and squid around you. Listen for how the smell you're carrying out with you connects to a trade that has run for generations.