Market

This guide to the Market in Aguas Calientes splits the building in two: the ground-floor corridor of alpaca sweaters and haggled souvenirs that every tourist photographs, and the lunch counter one flight up that almost none of them find. Upstairs is where porters, train crews and shopkeepers actually eat, off a set menu built around trout pulled straight from the cold Andean rivers. The guide lingers on that staircase as the real hinge between the two economies. Worth climbing before you decide you have seen the market.