Rembrandtplein

This guide to Rembrandtplein in Amsterdam opens on a February morning in 2020, when a crane lifted away a life-size bronze recreation of Rembrandt's Night Watch that Russian sculptors Mikhail Dronov and Alexander Taratynov had installed on the square in 2006. It traces the years-long standoff between the artists, the square's business association and the city over the cost of keeping the figures, and revisits the square's earlier life as a butter market. Listen while facing the empty plinth where the soldiers once stood.