Stade Mohammed V

This guide to Stade Mohammed V in Casablanca starts with the Raja-Wydad derby and the roar of eighty thousand fans, then walks past the stands to something the football crowds mostly ignore: an Olympic-length pool built into the same complex. It traces the ground back to 1955, when it opened named for a French-Moroccan boxing champion, through independence and a stripped-down renaming, to the 1983 rebuild that gave it its pool and its current name. Listen for how one gate separates the noise of the pitch from the quiet of the water, both built for the very same crowd.