Sidi Abderrahman Mausoleum

This guide to the Sidi Abderrahman Mausoleum in Casablanca starts with the smell on the rock: melted lead, incense, and the blood of a sacrificed goat, at a shrine legend says was founded by a saint who sailed here from Baghdad and could walk on water. It follows the women who still travel here hoping his baraka can cure what doctors cannot, and the chouafates, fortune tellers who read melted lead and spells for a few dirhams, a trade imams call haram and practitioners defend. Listen for how a stone footbridge built after 2013 changed the way pilgrims reach this tide-locked islet.