Maârif

This guide to Maarif in Casablanca traces the neighborhood's turn from a modest 1914 European suburb, nicknamed the petit blanc, into the city's after-dark eating district. It follows the bakers stuffing baguettes with kefta and vegetables, the sfenj frying in oil at night, and the newer Moroccan tacos invented by a generation with no memory of the old quarter. The oldest rule still applies as you walk it: find the longest line, and you have found dinner.