Naksan Park

This guide to Naksan Park in Seoul starts in 2006, when South Korea's culture ministry sent about seventy artists up this hillside beside the old city wall to paint murals across a neighborhood slated for demolition. It follows how photographs of a flower-tiled staircase and a koi fish stairway spread online, drawing crowds through alleys where residents were still hanging laundry and cooking dinner. You'll hear what happened to those murals one night in April 2016. Walk the wall between Hyehwamun and Heunginjimun gates, raised by Joseon's first king Taejo in 1396.