Songaksan

This guide to Songaksan, a volcanic headland on Jeju's south coast, opens inside fifteen hand-cut sea caves that Japanese soldiers carved into its cliffs in 1945, during the final months of the Pacific War, and the small suicide boats they were meant to hold. It then steps back to the headland's own origin as a tuff-ring volcano, built by steam rather than lava, with a hidden second crater folded inside its outer rim, its walls dark with ash. Trace the outer rim's roughly five-hundred-meter span by eye from where you stand.