Oedolgae

This guide to Oedolgae on Jeju's coast tells two very different legends behind one twenty-meter sea stack shaped like a face turned toward the water. One traces General Choi Yeong's trick during the Goryeo-era Mokho Rebellion, dressing the rock to look like an enormous sentry facing Mongol-allied rebels holed up on nearby Beom Island. The other is gentler: islanders also call it Grandmother Rock, for a wife who kept watch on this shore for a husband who never sailed home. Look at the grass across its crown and decide which story you see.