Gwangalli Beach

This guide to Gwangalli Beach in Busan walks through Millak Hoe Town, the raw fish market at the beach's north end, where you pick a still-swimming catch off the ground floor and watch it filleted into hoe within minutes. It follows that fish upstairs, where the shouting of the market gives way to big windows facing the beach and the lit-up Gwangandaegyo bridge, glowing with more than a hundred thousand colored lights by night. At stall number seventy-nine, called Gyeongjinho, regulars order ahead of the knife.