Chungnyeolsa

This guide to Chungnyeolsa in Busan opens with the words a Joseon magistrate spoke to a Japanese general in 1592, when Song Sang-hyeon refused to open the gates of Dongnae fortress. From that act of defiance, it moves to the shrine raised in his memory, first built in 1605 and later relocated to this spot, where ninety-two defenders are honored among a quiet pond and centuries-old pines. The site's ginkgo grove, planted long after, turns the whole approach gold each autumn.