Kariokor Market

This guide to Kariokor Market in Nairobi starts with an odd ritual at the cemetery tucked behind its stalls: unlike other Commonwealth graves in the city, the fifty-nine World War Two burials here get no wreaths, no bugles, no guards on Armistice Day. It traces the market's name back to the Carrier Corps, the East African labor force the British Army conscripted to haul supplies through the First World War, and the men who were housed on this very ground once the fighting ended. Walk past today's beadworkers and meat stalls and you're standing on that old carrier camp, one gate away from graves the country spent decades not naming.