Sumida Aquarium

This guide to Sumida Aquarium in Tokyo follows the keepers who track the private lives of the roughly fifty Magellanic penguins sharing its pool, publishing an annual chart of who is paired off, who has split up, and who is, in their words, more than friends. You'll hear about the birds' jealousies, their camera-hogging pairs, and the years of quiet watching behind a chart the aquarium sells in its own gift shop. It leaves you looking for the small drama playing out somewhere in the crowd behind the glass in front of you.