Jyogaishijo (Jyogai Market)

This guide to Jyogaishijo, the outer market beside Sapporo's central wholesale market, opens before dawn on a December morning in nineteen fifty-nine, when the wholesale auction floor first opened for business. You'll hear how the sixty-odd stalls just outside its gate found a legal shortcut, buying at that same dawn auction and reselling one crab or one cup of roe at a time to whoever walks up. It traces the market back further still, to a stall called Kitano Gourmet that was already trading here a decade before the wholesale market existed.