Tennoji Park

This guide to Tennoji Park in Osaka follows the small hill called Chausuyama through two sieges a year apart in 1614 and 1615, first as Tokugawa Ieyasu's headquarters and then as the command post of the Toyotomi general Sanada Yukimura. It reaches the morning of June 3, 1615, when Yukimura and his ally Mori Katsunaga launched a charge downhill straight at Ieyasu's own position, with a hundred and fifty thousand Tokugawa troops closing in around them. Stand at the summit, where the old stone markers and battle maps still mark the exact ground both commanders fought to hold.