Shitennō-ji

This guide to Shitennō-ji in Osaka opens on Mount Shigi in 587, in the middle of a war between two clans over whether Buddhism belonged in Japan. It follows Prince Shotoku, who carved rough images of the Four Heavenly Kings from a sacred tree, tucked them into his hair, and shouted a vow to his wavering troops before the fighting turned. From there it traces the temple built to keep that promise, and the fires, storms and bombing that have forced it to rebuild again and again.