Testaccio Market

This guide to Testaccio Market in Rome starts underfoot, with a Roman-era hill of shattered olive-oil jars called Monte Testaccio that gave the neighborhood its name. It moves to the slaughterhouse that opened here roughly a hundred and thirty years ago, where workers were paid in the cuts wealthy Romans didn't want, the quinto quarto, or fifth quarter. Local innkeepers turned those leftovers into some of Rome's most distinctive cooking.