Piazza dei Martiri

This guide to Piazza dei Martiri in Naples opens with four stone lions guarding a column raised to Naples' fallen after the city backed Italian unification in 1860 the square once carried the gentler name Piazza della Pace, under Bourbon rule. It traces how sculptor Emanuele Caggiano crowned the monument and four artists carved a lion for each of the city's separate uprisings. Then it turns to what the square looks like most evenings, when Neapolitans drift past the lions toward the tiny bars of the baretti for a spritz. Listen for the mismatch between the marble grief and the crowd hunting for a mojito.