Museo Civico Gaetano Filangieri

This guide to the Museo Civico Gaetano Filangieri in Naples opens with a prince who saved the fifteenth-century Palazzo Como from demolition in 1883 by having its entire front wall dismantled and rebuilt twenty meters back. It follows his decades spent collecting porcelain, weapons, ivory and manuscripts he feared Naples was losing, the museum he opened in 1888 to house them, and what happened to that collection when retreating troops set fire to a villa outside the city in September 1943. Look around the rooms today, largely filled by what Neapolitans gave back afterward.