Castel Sant'Elmo

This guide to Castel Sant'Elmo in Naples opens in 1647, when a young fishmonger named Tommaso Aniello, known as Masaniello, turned a mock battle at a summer festival into a real uprising against a new tax on fruit. As the mob surged toward the viceroy's palace, the Spanish viceroy, Duke of Arcos, fled uphill to shelter inside these star-shaped walls. You'll hear how a fisherman he had never met found himself, however briefly, ruling the city below. Look out over the bay from the ramparts, toward the market where the revolt began.