Piazza di Santa Maria Novella

This guide to Piazza di Santa Maria Novella in Florence recreates the Palio dei Cocchi, the chariot race Duke Cosimo the First staged here every June starting in 1563, with four teams in the colors of Florence's old quarters tearing three laps around the square. It explains why the wooden turning posts were replaced in 1608 by Giambologna's marble obelisks resting on bronze tortoises, and what the winners actually took home. Look toward either end of the piazza and you'll spot the turtles still holding their markers in place.