Reykjavík Maritime Museum

This guide to the Reykjavík Maritime Museum centers on the coast guard cutter Ódinn, moored outside its walls, tracing her from her 1959 launch into a storm-tossed 1963 rescue of a British trawler crew wrecked on Iceland's coast, no questions asked about whose flag they sailed. It follows her into the tense Cod Wars years, when Icelandic patrol boats cut the nets of foreign trawlers fishing inside the country's new two-hundred-mile limit, including a hard collision with another vessel's steel. Stand at the rail and look down at the plates that took that beating.