Chapora Fort

This guide to Chapora Fort in Goa follows the headland through three empires: the Bijapur sultans who first called it Shahpura, Sambhaji, son of Shivaji, whose cannon fire took it from them in 1683, and the Portuguese who rebuilt it from scratch in 1717 with bastions set into the hill and a chapel to Saint Anthony inside the walls. It also follows the Marathas under the Bhonsle dynasty retaking the fort in 1739, and the tunnel cut down to the river as an escape route for a garrison that could not count on rescue. Listen for the goats picking through the grass among the bastion walls today.