India Gate

This guide to India Gate in Delhi opens at the rifle-and-helmet memorial where Indira Gandhi lit four flames on Republic Day 1972, days after the war that created Bangladesh. It reaches back further to Edwin Lutyens' 1931 arch, built for over seventy-four thousand Indian soldiers who died in the First World War, only thirteen thousand of them named in its stone. It's a guide about two generations of mourning sharing one monument, and an argument over memory that's still alive today.