Tegallalang Rice Terrace

This guide to the Tegallalang Rice Terrace in Bali starts with an unusual toll: a farmer asking visitors for money just to cross his family's field. From there it traces subak, the thousand-year-old, priest-run irrigation system that decides which fields drink first, and the 2012 UNESCO recognition of Bali's water-temple landscape. Giant wooden swings and bamboo bridges now arc over the same paddies the water temples still bless.