Crystal Bay Nusa Penida

This guide to Crystal Bay on Nusa Penida follows the ocean sunfish, or mola mola, that rises each year between July and October from far below to visit this patch of water. It explains the upwelling of cold water that draws the fish toward a cleaning station where small bannerfish pick parasites from its hide, and why divers call a sighting a lottery. Above the surface, none of it shows, just pale sand, small wooden boats at anchor, and a sky turning orange toward sunset.