Bali Pulina, Tegallang Gianyar

This guide to Bali Pulina in Tegallalang, Gianyar traces the odd history of kopi luwak, Bali's famous civet coffee, back to Dutch colonial rule beginning in 1830, when farmers were forbidden from tasting the beans they grew. It follows how a small nocturnal animal, the Asian palm civet, and a loophole in the law turned into one of the most expensive coffees in the world. Sit at the tables along the cliff edge above the rice terraces, where a free round of coffees and teas arrives before anyone mentions the luwak.