Várhegy

This guide to Várhegy in Budapest opens on an afternoon in 1541, when the Ottoman sultan Suleiman the Magnificent invited Hungary's leading nobles and Buda's infant king to what looked like an ordinary courtesy visit at his camp above the city. It lingers on the sightseeing Ottoman soldiers wandering unarmed through the fortress gates, and the joke about coffee that kept the guests seated a little longer than they expected. Down at the river, a Habsburg relief army waited, unaware of what was unfolding on the hill above them.