Fiumei Road Graveyard

This guide to Fiumei Road Graveyard in Budapest opens with the 1849 execution of Count Lajos Batthyány, Hungary's first prime minister, and the plan a priest and a doctor made to keep Austrian authorities from erasing his grave. It follows the count's secret burial in a Franciscan crypt, sealed under a stone turned to face the darkness, and traces the cemetery's grander monuments, from Albert Schickedanz's Carrara-marble chapel to Lajos Kossuth's tomb beneath its snarling stone cats. Stand near the chapel at the highest point of the grounds while you listen.