Kupari

This guide to Kupari in Dubrovnik follows a seaside brickworks-turned-resort built in the 1920s by journalist Jaroslav Fencl and bank clerk Jan Masa, and the Czech workers who staffed it. It traces how the Grand Hotel became the region's largest, then how it was renamed Plavi Jadran after World War Two and turned into a retreat for the Yugoslav People's Army, with Tito keeping a villa nearby. Stand among the shells and consider whose labor built them.