Perívolos

This guide to Perívolos in Santorini walks the five kilometers of black volcanic sand that make it the island's longest beach, and the shift it undergoes each afternoon from quiet shoreline to open-air stage. It follows how a working stretch of coast turned into a run of beach clubs, from the unpretentious regulars at Yazz to the competing DJ residencies at Wet Stories and Jojo. You'll hear how none of it was planned by a single owner, but grew bar by bar over recent decades. Stand at the water's edge around sunset to catch the change in tempo.