Gaia Winery | Santorini

This guide to Gaia Winery in Santorini turns on a question posed in two thousand nine: would salty, volcanic Assyrtiko wine age better on the seabed than in a cellar? It follows winemakers Yiannis Paraskevopoulos and Leon Karatsalos as they lower a cage of their Thalassitis white twenty-five meters into the Aegean, and the divers who hauled it back up four years later to find out what survived the pressure. The building itself has its own second life, a converted tomato-processing plant turned into a winery on the water.