Rue Mouffetard

This guide to Rue Mouffetard in Paris starts with a 1938 discovery: workers renovating a building at number fifty-three break through a wall and find thousands of gold coins hidden inside. The trail leads back two centuries to Louis Nivelle, a royal counselor drawn into a secret religious circle near Saint-Medard cemetery, and to the daughter who never learned what he'd hidden. The guide also follows Ernest Hemingway's morning walks down this cobbled market street in the 1920s, past cheese stalls and fishmongers, on his way to write.