Noailles

This guide to Noailles, Marseille's densest market neighborhood, opens with a question: why vendors here still glance up at the buildings above their stalls. It traces the answer to the 2018 collapse of two apartment buildings on nearby rue d'Aubagne, and further back to the neighborhood's founding three centuries ago by a nobleman named Jacques de Noailles. Listen for the French, Arabic, Comorian and Senegalese tangled together across a few meters of pavement, and stop by the Marche des Capucins stalls at the market's heart.