Croix-Rousse Street market

Along nearly a kilometer of open ridge in Lyon, this guide to the Croix-Rousse street market follows the strip of land where the city's old ramparts stood until 1865, torn down after the silk workers on this hill rose against Paris. You'll hear how traders moved in almost as soon as the rubble cleared, and what close to a hundred vendors still sell here six mornings a week under open sky. Follow the smell of the rotisserie stalls past the offal butchers a few pitches along.